Eco-Tourism in Laos; A Top 10 family-friendly guide to Luang Prabang

When I first looked into travelling to Laos it was as adventurous newlyweds backpacking home to Australia from Europe through SEA.  Less socially conscious and sustainably-minded, I'd heard great things and it was all about the gibbons and tree-top zip lining experience on the border near Chiang Mai in northern Thailand. We'd start here and plan a trip down the Mekong Delta and then spend lazy days in a haze of cocktails floating in a rubber tube out of Vientiane. We never made it. A long story about stolen passports, Portuguese police stations, embassy visits, emergency documents, missing visas, a lot of hassle and a lot of time spent in Nepal and Vietnam and Cambodia instead would mean Laos would have to be another trip altogether.   

Jump to 4 years later and as parents of a nearly-two year old the Laos experience we would end up having would be somewhat similar to those earlier travel tantalisations and entirely different altogether.  Open water tubing became an inflatable flamingo in the hotel pool and we still made it to a zip lining experience.. albeit gingerly walking our toddler across a precarious suspension bridge; still one harness short of a heart attack for the more conservative parent amongst us ;)  

But Laos can be just as exotic, intrepid and adventurous with kids; just more of the architectural, environmental and cultural wonders and less of the artificial inflatable and adrenaline kind. 

Background

Laos is one of the least populated countries in SEA. Within Laos, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Luang Prabang consists of many interconnecting villages with the centre lying along a Peninsula connecting the Nam Khan and Mekong River. There is an interplay of rural and urban developments with a strong French colonial influence and subtle and sympathetic integration of Western hospitality in the cafes and coffee shops dotted throughout the city.  The pace is slow and pleasant and unlike many other major cities in SEA you can amble much of the footpath with a pram or dawdling toddler as well as cross the road without an onslaught of motorbikes and madness.  We allowed one week but you could certainly justify two to check out all of the places listed below. 

Getting there

You can fly to Luang Prabang in under 3 hours from Kuala Lumpur with popular routes also direct from Bangkok or the capital Vientiane. Vietnam Airlines, Japan Airlines, Qatar Airways, Bangkok Airways, Malaysian Airlines, Air Asia and Laos Airlines all have routes through Luang Prabang. 

Where to stay

From home-stay to high end in Luang Prabang there is accommodation to suit all budgets.  We stayed at the 4 star Kiridara Resort set on a hillside with an infinity pool and views overlooking the town.  Knowing we'd spend a bit more time at the hotel than our younger backpacking selves, we chose economical luxury with the added bonus that our baby monitor wifi stretched as far as the pool day bed, perfect for a cheeky club sandwich and cocktail at nap time.  With a lofty aspect and enough greenery to give a remote and authentic eco-vibe, Kiridara is also close enough to wander the 20 minutes downhill to town.  If you want to avoid the pot holes and traffic, the hotel provides a free 5 minute shuttle and despite your best parenting intentions you may well find yourself for a few kip balancing your sleeping baby in the pram on the back of a motorised tuk tuk well past bed time after a delicious dinner at one of the many local and french inspired restaurants downtown. 

Get amongst nature

1. Day trips out to the Kuang Si Falls, Tat Sae Waterfalls and Pal Ou Caves are popular.  There are motorised tuk tuks advertising this service departing from the city centre. The most spectacular is Kuang Si Falls 30km out of Luang Prabang which also houses a Sun bear rescue centre.  The falls start as shallow pools in a travertine pattern culminating in an impressive cascade of 60 metres.  There are turquoise mineral swimming spots that are idyllic and instaworthy if you can bypass the selfie-sticks and tourist drones(!)

2. Near the Kuang Si Falls is an impressive Dutch-run Butterfly Park operating as an education and preservation centre. Honourable mention for a day trip is the Nahm Dong Park 10km out of Luang Prabang. A relaxing place to walk, picnic and experience breathtaking waterfall and valley views in a family friendly environment.

3. Pad Tad Ke Botanical Gardens is a pleasant 15 minute boat ride down the Mekong river 15 minutes from town and departing hourly (included with ticket).  Learn about the traditional, medicinal and food uses for the diverse local flora and enjoy a delicious meal by the lily pond. 

See elephants in their natural environment 

4. In a serene riverside organic farm and jungle environment 20km out of Luang Prabang, you can visit Mandalo and experience elephants in their natural habitat.  The local Mahout trainers/keepers are bonded to their elephant for life and along with the knowledgeable founders and guides provide an intimate and unique opportunity to walk with, feed and bathe adult and baby elephants.  You will appreciate a new culture of ethical and humane tourism moving away from riding experiences and towards protection and conservation of these majestic domesticated and wild elephants. 

Yes they will provide you with knee-high black lace up boots for wading in water and mud.  Your friends back home will look at your photos bewildered by at your jungle styling choices and convinced that many hours indoors as a parent has caused you to lose the sartorial plot. That aside, this day trip is highly recommended and you can book your elephant experience here.

Find your Zen with some Buddhist influence

5. To get a feel for the peninsula and geography, wake early before the heat sets in and head to the centre of town to climb Mount Phu Si, an iconic and local religious site housing many Buddhist shrines.  It is bordered by the Mekong river on one side and Nam khan on the other.  The summit sits 100 metres above the city and provides views across the town and surrounding countryside.

6. Tourists to Luang Prabang may be encouraged to participate in the Buddhist alms giving ceremony which begins at sunrise on the main streets as monks set out from their various temples to gather food for their one meal the day. The alms ceremony is an ancient tradition that is both spiritual and peaceful.  It is important to avoid any disrespect by dressing modestly, avoiding directly photographing the monks and arriving with plenty of time so as not to disrupt the ceremony.  

Understandably throughout our time in Luang Prabang, my family did not take too kindly to my obsession with #monkspotting and #OITNB social media captions as I endeavoured to capture their quintessential flowing orange robes against a serene river or temple backdrop.  This was generally attempted while whizzing past in a vehicle at speed with my camera pointed out the window.  Understandably terrible photos ensued. Some more information about etiquette and how to avoid offence in relation to the giving of alms is detailed here.

Explore the traditional handicrafts

7. Just a short drive and you will be amongst traditional villages where you can start to appreciate some of the many and diverse ethnic groups and their traditional dress and handicrafts.  The Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre in town work to preserve and promote this cultural diversity and can be found here.

8. If you are in the town centre after 5pm you won't help but stumble across the Night Market which closes the streets along Sisavangvong Road to the town centre. A colourful, albeit slightly claustrophobic affair but a chance to see the intricate embroidery and vibrant wares of the hill-tribe traders.  If you haven't considered the logistics of carting home 25 paper lanterns in your checked luggage or left with a pair of one size fits most elephant harem pants you haven't done the experience justice.

9. Ock Pop Tok is an enterprising social and sustainable business working to promote ethical fashion, cultural preservation and sustainable income for rural communities.  Meaning "East meets West", it has grown from humble shop-front origins into one of the most important textile and artisan institutions in all of Laos and South East Asia.  With two shops and a Living Arts Centre along the banks of the Mekong River, an idyllic spot for a drink and lounge and where you are sure to pick up an artistic and meaningful memento celebrating the work of talented village women.

Eat well!

10. Do not worry about not eating well in Luang Prabang. There are options to suit both Eastern, Western and fusion palates combining a rich regional food heritage with an East meets west modern and French colonial influence. Laap (mince meat salad), sticky rice, river fish fried or steamed whole in banana leaf are regional specialties (not to mention a hit with my toddler).  We enjoyed meals at Bamboo Tree, 3 Nagas, high end French bistro dining at L’Elephant, daily coffee at Saffron Espresso cafe and french baked goods and patisserie staples at Indigo House. 

With multiple riverside bar and dining options, be sure to enjoy a cocktail as the sun sets with a moorish appetiser of Kaipen; a Mekong river weed, seasoned, dried and flash fried to serve with a smokey chilli and buffalo skin dip. Travelfish has a comprehensive list of Luang Prabang's food scene. 

Before You Go

Finally, before you go, visit your local travel doctor to get up to date with vaccinations for food and vector borne illnesses including Hepatitis A, Typhoid and optional Malaria and Japanese Encephalitis if recommended, during wet season or if travelling to rural areas. Ensure you use tropical grade mosquito repellent and other preventative measures like light coloured long sleeve clothing and nets for sleeping. 

If travelling with children be reassured the wonderful Lao Friends Hospital for children, opened in 2015 and run by international organisation Friends Without a Border provides high quality health care for those in need. The hospital is staffed by hundreds of local medical professionals and international volunteers under the model of Treatment + Education + Prevention for a sustainable solution to improving local healthcare. The hospital provides free medical care and health education to children in Luang Prabang through inpatient, outpatient, neonatal and outreach programmes. 

Visit the information centre in town to find out more and see some photography and videography of the incredible work within the local community.  You can also donate, volunteer or contribute remotely by visiting their website.